Portuguese pastry, Lisbon, artisan craftsmanship
Torta de Azeitão: the golden roll that came from the Alentejo
The fork meets no resistance, the thin sheet of sponge gives way, and the egg cream appears. A torta de Azeitão hides nothing: two elements, one gesture, and…
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Meias-luas of Viana: the pastry you bought without seeing a soul
A coin laid on a wooden tray, a half turn, and the pastry appears without you ever seeing the hand that made it. In Viana do Castelo, meias-luas were sold this…
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Doce de gila: the squash you smash on the ground to make a dessert
You do not cut it open, you throw it on the ground. And what comes out of the broken squash looks nothing like a dessert: white, dry, tangled fibres. Sugar and…
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Pastel de feijão: the Portuguese pastry that hides beans
You bite into it looking for almond, and you find almond. What you never find is the white bean that makes up half the filling. That is the whole sleight of…
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Toucinho do céu: the cake named after an ingredient it no longer contains
Its name means "bacon from heaven". The lard disappeared from the recipe long ago, but the name stayed — and so did the gesture, carried out of a Portuguese…
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Sericaia: the Portuguese dessert that has to crack to be right
In the Alentejo, this dessert is never turned out of its dish, never smoothed over, never rescued. It comes out of the oven cracked, split, almost ruined — and…
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Pão de Ló: The Portuguese Cake Pulled From the Oven Too Soon
You push a spoon in and the middle runs. In any other European bakery this cake would be a failure. In Portugal it is exactly what you came for — and it took a…
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Bica: What the Portuguese Actually Order at the Counter
Thirty seconds at the counter, one word, a small cup. Portuguese coffee is not a break: it is a punctuation mark in the day. And in Lisbon it goes by a name…
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Rissóis: the Portuguese fried turnover, and its recipe
Rissol, rissóis, rissoles: the most misspelled breaded snack in Portugal. What it actually is, the two classic fillings, and the traditional recipe — including…
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